I'm sure that by now, everyone but our good friends and family have assumed that Bonnie and I have fallen off the planet, or at least been seriously maimed in the last major earthquake. Fortunately, neither is true, but our lives have been seriously busy, even more than usual in the past few months.
First of all, to all our friends and family who we had a chance to meet on our brief trip/visit to
Well, now for the scoop since my January Blog entry. March was the end of the Japanese school year, so our trip
It's nearly impossible to compile our entire trip into a paragraph or two, but that was pretty much the gist of it all. On our next trip we expect to have a lot more time to visit with people and catch up on lost time.
After we returned to Japan, the next challenge was work-related. Bonnie had to adjust to a new work schedule, and I had to re-interview for my job -- a position which technically I never should have gotten in the first place, as it's normally given to people from
Since the beginning of the new school year, I've taken another trip to
First of all, let me say that this was my first time to ride the Shinkansen, or Japanese bullet train. It's definitely an interesting experience to be moving across land at speeds exceeding 300km/h. Usually traveling that fast is associated with being in an airplane. Yes, it's expensive.... But if you come to
When we arrived in
It's Japanese custom to memorialize events like trips with tons of photographs, and buying sweets and other souvenirs as gifts for friends, co-workers, family and even themselves. In recent years, a local such snack "okashi" has become popular. It's called: "Daibutsu no hanakuso." It means: "The Great Buddha's Booger." That's right. For about $5 USD you can buy a plastic bag, containing a gritty, grainy, brownish ball about the size of a large apple, claiming to be a booger from the Buddha's giant nose! Some have criticized the company who makes the snack, saying it's irreverent and inappropriate. Indeed! Can you imagine the outcry if someone were to start selling Jesus's toenail clippings or perhaps Muhammad's ear wax? Yikes! In any event, irrevernce aside, I thought it was pretty funny so, not being a devout Buddhist, I bought a few of them to show my friends and for Bonnie to taste-test... No reports yet on how they were. Interestingly enough,
Modern Japanese school trips are quite unlike anything I've ever heard of in
Not two weeks after that, Bonnie and I had a chance to visit the World Expo in
Nevertheless, the overall experience proved quite enjoyable, and given the chance, Bonnie and I will try to visit again in September, before the expo closes down. All the different pavilions are fun to peruse through, and the different countries provide for a diverse cultural experience. The Canadians have provided genuine "mounties" in their trademark red uniforms, and a team of "genuine Canadians" for Japanese visitors to talk to and interview about their everyday lives. The Cubans have an "authentic" Cuban bar set up where you can take a break from the heat and sip on some 'mojitos' or maybe a 'Cuba Libre.' Then, after getting inspired by a photo gallery of Ernest Hemmingway, you can browse their small, but nicely stocked humidor. They have famous brands like "Romeo & Juliettas" or "Cohibas," made popular by American 'gonzo' journalist Hunter S. Thompson. If cigars aren't your thing, you can sit and watch a short movie presentation about the country. I had the chance to speak to a young, Cuban tour guide both in Spanish, then in French when I found out he studied at
Bonnie found interest in the
A shopkeeper (placing a garnet necklace into Bonnie's hand): Beautiful. It is beautiful on you. Genuine garnet stone. High quality.
Bonnie: Very nice. I like it.
Shopkeeper: I give you good price. Best price only for you. Special expo deal only.
Bonnie: Thank you. That's very nice.
Atley (cynically): Ok... How much?
Shopkeeper: Only 2,500 yen.
Atley (taking the necklace and handing it back to the shopkeeper): Nooooooo.... Thank you. That's too expensive.
Shopkeeper (not giving the least indication that he might take the necklace back): No problem. What you give me?
Atley: The price I will give you is too low... You won't like what I have to say.
Shopkeeper (unwavering): No. What you give me? If too low, I say no and we still be friends.
Bonnie (to Atley): Offer him 1,000. He won't go for that....
Atley (to shopkeeper): Ok. fine. 1,000 yen..... (Extending arm to give the necklace back).
Shopkeeper (hesitating and grimacing): Mmmmmm... mmmmm... Okay. You have deal.
Bonnie: (unintelligible muttering).
Atley (to a grinning Bonnie, while handing money to a grinning shopkeeper): Well, there you go, Ms. "Offer him 1,000 - it's too low." Now you've committed. Next time, don't let him put anything into your hand or we're not going to walk out of here with two yen left to rub together.
It turned out to be an interesting shopping trip as a result.... The Czech pavilion was my favorite. Upon walking in, It looks like someone was on some serious hallucinogenic drugs when they came up with the concept for the pavilion. After a while, I began to understand what was going on... For those who "get it" it's an absolutely amazing pavilion.... Really, quite brilliant! It took me about 15 minutes to "get it" but some visitors, obviously never did, as they came and left within two minutes, shaking their heads and muttering in confusion something about "crazy Czechs" and having absoultely nothing to do with the country.
When you entered the pavilion, you walked through a curvy, twisty, white, round tunnel-like entrance, much like a cross between round door to a hobbit hole from Tolkienian folklore and an airlock from some Cold-War era Soviet space station design. When you reach the inside, you are greeted by a large chamber, with all sorts of Dali-esque surreal things going on all around you. There are strange images being projected on walls, there is an old grand piano standing in a pool of water with its cover removed and strings exposed, steel pipes, hanging wooden planks, all placed upon oversized "steps" which lead up to the top of the pavilion. The shape of the room is reminiscent of a theatre house, with the pool containing the piano in the area where an orchestra or choir would normally be on a stage, and all the other items scattered about in the areas where an audience would normally sit to listen to a concert.
It took me a little while to understand. The entire point of the pavilion was to illustrate the theme of the expo. Everything in the "amphitheatre" was in some way connected to nature. It was either "made" from natural materials, or used "nature" in some way to achieve a visual or sound effect. The visitors to the pavilion played the part of the actors and musicians as well as the audience and would operate the musical instruments and visual effects devices, many of which looked like Rube Goldberg machines from some alternate reality. The resulting cacophony was not at all unpleasant, but reminiscent of a clockwork with all sorts of clicking, humming, chiming, whirling, and tapping going on as people were allowed to "play" with virtually everything in the room. It was very much a "hands-on" experience that seemed to appeal to the children especially, but even any adult with a playful streak.
After exiting the "theatre" there was a small shop selling genuine Czech crystal and jewelry. Next door to this was a "genuine" Czech cafe or pub (hybrid) that offered imported Czech beer on tap (Praha Krusovice) and typical Czech dishes, served by typical, apathetic and slightly rude Czech waiters brought in just for the expo. I certainly felt very much at-home yelling, "Pane vrchni. Dva krat pivo, prosim." (Waiter... Two beers please.)... Then waiting for the fellow to take his sweet time bringing the beer, not surprised in the slightest having some Czech guy talking to him in his own language in the heart of Japan... The attitude and ambience were so well done, we could have been sitting in any pub or cafe in Prague. We indulged in both food and drink, and I was so happy I could burst! It had been a long time since I had genuine Czech beer on tap, along with good, authentic Czech food. What made it absolutely amazing was the fact that they had brought in a team of professional celebrity chefs from daily Czech TV cooking shows. The food may have been traditional pub fare in Europe, but the presentation and taste were truly world-class. I spoke to one of the chefs who seemed genuinely tickled that we enjoyed the food so much, and I think a little relieved as well, to speak in Czech with someone who was completely oblivious to his celebrity status and wasn't asking him to sign his autograph on his latest cookbook.
More about expo in a future Blog... For now, I will try to get the photos developed. I do encourage anyone who has the financial means and time away from work to visit expo. Even if it isn't this one in
The next major event currently occurring in our lives is moving! Yes, after two years living in the same apartment, it looks like it's time to pack up and move into another place in
"For the love of all that's good.. WHY?!?!"
Well, things in
First of all, it should be understood that
Such paradoxes make house (or apartment) hunting frustrating but on many occasions work out in the favour of the tenant. One common method of finding a new place to live is to simply walk (or drive) through neighbourhoods where you would like to live and look for houses that look either vacant or abandoned. This is so common, you will easily end up with several prospects in a matter of hours. Next, ask the neighbours or local grandparents you see wandering about if they know who lives in the house in question, and if nobody, who the landlord/owner is. The Japanese word for "landlord" is 'oyasan.' In an ideal situation you may walk away with a name and phone number of the oyasan whom you can then phone and ask if they would consider renting the house to you. If they are open-minded enough to not mind renting a place to "gaikokujin" (foreigners) there is a pretty good chance that you will walk off with a much nicer deal than the other option, which is to hire a realtor.
In
In
Then, like in
So, have you been keeping a running total in your head? If not, let me summarize it for you. That was: 1 month's rent for the realtor's commission, two month's damage deposit, one month's key money, and don't forget the first month's rent when you move in. All of this equals about 5 month's rent just to get into a place. Now, there are some other odds and ends that must be taken care of. If you want cable TV, you will likely have to pay an additional 3,000 yen a month -- and this may not be an optional charge if your apartment is listed as having "CATV included." Then, if you are moving into a house (rather than an apartment) there's a good chance you may have to pay community association fees of about 2,000 yen. This is not unlike condominium fees back home. They also serve similar functions as well. Then, unless it's a house, you will likely pay parking fees if you own a vehicle. 5,000 yen is a standard sum.
So let's summarize. Startup costs: 5 month's rent, plus an additional 5-10,000 yen per month for other expenses. Let's assume you are considering an apartment that's about 50,000 yen per month for rent. (In Canadian dollars, that's about $568) . This, by the way is on the low end of the rent spectrum. (In larger cities like Osaka or Tokyo, add at least 20 or 30,000 more). Add an additional 5,000 yen for cable TV/community fees or parking, making it about 55,000. Multiply that by 5, and the grand total is.......(drum roll please)..... 275,000 yen ($3125 CDN)! That's no small change! We were lucky that when we arrived, the company that hired us worked out all the paperwork with our realtor and lent us the money to get the apartment, which we repaid to our employer on a monthly installment basis over six months. So, why are we moving? Let me explain.
The usual contract term for renting a place in
Well, our re-contracting time came and went. It actually was back in the beginning of March, but we were not informed of anything until the second week of May. We received a letter from our realtor, explaining that we would be required to pay 67,000 to re-contract for another two years. This fee, apparently, covers the cost of property taxes and whatnot for the landlord. Needless to say, we were less than impressed as we didn't know this before. If we had, we would have been saving up for this fee. On the bright side, we could have ended up paying a lot more, as in many places it's also common to pay another round of reikin (key money) for the new two-year term. Nevertheless, I would not have been so reluctant to dish out the cash if it hadn't been for our miserable neighbours making our stay a lot more troublesome. To summarize quickly, we've got a next-door neighbour with a dog (in a no-pets-allowed building) that craps all over the walkway to our apartment because they tend to keep their front door open quite often, which lets the dog out. The stupid mutt also barks for hours on end, even with our neighbours being at home. It just isn't a priority to them to get their dog to stop barking. Also, these people have kept a junk-heap next to their apartment door for the past two years. We're talking bags of empty cans for recycling, gasoline canisters, tools, garbage, flower pots, boxes, and assorted junk just piled up in a large, nasty heap. All our complaints to them and the landlord have gone completely unheeded. The only complaint that the landlord ever listened to from us was to stop the neighbours from parking a huge construction-area dump truck in front of the apartment, not only causing a eyesore, but narrowing an already ridiculously narrow street. Downstairs, we have some crying colicky babies and the older ones play basketball in the house: thump-a-thump-a-thump-a.... at all hours. Since many Japanese people get up very early, by six a.m. (which is even early for me -- I get up at seven) I've got washing machines running, doors slamming, TVs blaring, people shouting, dogs barking, cats in heat yowling, babies crying, people beating out their futons on the balcony railing, trains rumbling though, truck back-up beepers beeping, delivery truck arriving all while I'm trying to catch that last hour of sleep before waking up. On the weekends it gets more interesting. Then, in addition to all of the above, I've got trucks with loudspeakers selling stuff door-to-door playing marching music, firecrackers going off (to mark off the hour -- every hour) and kids playing outside, since they don't have to go to school.
Anyway, I've digressed. My point was, that I really did not feel like I was getting my 67,000 yen's worth paying for all of these crazy little annoyances that seem to have added up over the past two years. I explained this to my realtor, in the hopes of arriving at some sort of understanding to either action some of the things that could be dealt with, such as the dog crapping and barking issue, or offering some kind of discount on the re-contracting fee. A friend told us that his friend had been presented with a re-contracting fee, to which this fellow just said, "in that case, I'm just going to move out." The realtor very quickly dropped the issue and said, not to worry about it -- they would rather have him stay than leave. I guess results in this regard may vary. I've been also told by others that re-contracting fees should not be so high -- frequently they are only about 1/2 a month's rent or so.
When I mentioned some of this to my realtor in Japanese, (through an exceedingly polite Japanese lady friend of ours) , the realtor told us that we should still pay half of the re-contracting fee if we decided to move out. Until this time, though, the boss of the realty hadn't been present for the earlier conversation so when he walked in he didn't quite know exactly what was going on -- but he did have SOME idea, as when he entered the room and saw me sitting there with my Japanese translator, he muttered to himself in Japanese that was still audible enough for us to catch, "Aww, man... Must be those bloody neighbours again...." Anyway, when he was caught up to speed on the full situation, he pointed out that they had sent me a re-contracting letter back in February, which I can authoritatively deny having received. At this point I went into "irate foreigner" mode and just about lost my nuggets and started screaming. I exhibited some restraint, but not enough to stop me from raising my voice, glaring and starting to speak angrily in English - very, very quickly. I demanded to know why nobody had contacted me IF indeed they had sent a letter to me back in February and I hadn't replied. I said that in any normal country that was running any normal business would follow up if they hadn't herd back for three months. I told him very directly that I was calling his bluff, and that the only letter I had ever received was the one from last week, and he could rest assured that if I had gotten his earlier letter, I would have been in his office complaining long before this. All of this was dramatically enacted for him in a mix of my angry, bad Japanese, mixed in with my translator's good Japanese, and me telling my translator to try and use "more rude" language in expressing my ideas, instead of the usual, hyper-polite keigo (honorific Japanese). The boss of the firm, obviously intimidated, just put on the biggest, cat-swallowed-a-canary grin he could muster, and kept saying not to worry, that we would work something out and that he would "take my situation under consideration." When we returned a few days later to give formal notice of moving out, the situation was all but resolved. It seems that my "suggestion" of merely paying a pro-rated amount of the re-contracting fee, representative of how many months beyond March was reasonable enough by their reckoning and would be "sufficient." We also asked when we should move out by, and the realtor said that if we gave a month's notice, everything would be alright. So, we notified them that June would be our last month and that we'd be moving out by the end of it.
Well, that makes our June a ridiculously busy month! Fortunately we don't have a lot of furniture and heavy items... The move will be within the city so actual "packing into boxes" will be minimal. I'd say most things will just get loaded into our van, and unloaded at our destination which is still in the works.
Alright, that's it for now. As usual, please send an e-mail or something. We're happy to hear from you all. I will try to post some more pictures as soon as I can -- especially from my most recent